This small country packs quite a punch, full of waterfalls, historic sites, and warm-hearted, friendly people.
Where to Go
Since we had a car, we decided to pass through Bosnia-Herzegovina on our way from Croatia to Montenegro. We wish we’d given ourselves more time! There are many travel companies that can take you on a day-trip to Mostar, but there are many other things to explore outside of the city. If you have a car, do yourself a favor and do some more exploring in this beautiful country.
Kravika Waterfalls
Our first stop in Bosnia was to check out the Kravika waterfalls. While not as stunning as the waterfalls we had just seen in Croatia’s Plitvice or Krka, they were still beautiful. The best part is that, unlike Plitvice, you can swim in these waterfalls and even rent a kayak! There are also restaurants at the bottom where you can grab a beer and some snacks.
Kravika means “Little Cow,” and legend says that the falls obtained their name after a little cow was swept down the stream towards the falls. People assumed that it would drown, but instead it was found, alive and safe, on the other side!
Admittance is about $4-$5 (depending on the time of year). There is free a shuttle bus that takes you down the stairs to the falls, but we found the walk to be easy and short walk.
Pocitelj
Our next stop was the historic site of Pocitelj, which is a Unesco World Heritage Site. During the war in Bosnia from 1992-1996, the site suffered from bombings and other war damages. Today, Bosnia’s government has restored many of the buildings and is working hard to maintain these buildings as an important historic site.
There is no charge to explore the ancient city, which continues to maintain a small population of people. Everyone we met was friendly but also trying to sell us something– inviting us into their homes for a cold drink or a meal. For how beautiful this place was, there were surprisingly few other tourists around.
Some of the most important structures include a mosque and a fort, both built in the 15th Century. We were able to climb up the fort, which was steep and included missing and crumbling steps, so if you venture in, be careful.
The views from the top, however, were worth it!
We then ventured further up along the wall, where we got some great shots of the entire city.
Mostar
Our final destination for the day was Mostar. We stayed right downtown at the Hotel-Restaurant Kriva Cuprija, where we enjoyed a great stay and a wonderful dinner right by the river. It also included a free breakfast in the morning and free guarded parking.
We took a walk from our hotel over Mostar’s most prominent landmark, the Stari Most (or Old Bridge). On the other side, we found the heart of the old city and beautiful views of the bridge behind us.
During the day, vendors line the rocky streets, selling dishes and clothing. Along the streets were cafes full of people having a drink and enjoying dinner.
We also saw signs of Bosnia’s not-too-distant history in the street graffiti and small reminders around the city.
As darkness descended on the city, a vibrant nightlife emerged. Restaurant owners pulled chairs and tables out into the street, and the dance music was turned up. Numbers of clubs lined the streets, like Ali Baba, a club carved out of a cave.
Vrelo Brune
In the morning, we said goodbye to Mostar, but not yet to Bosnia. Our last stop was Vrelo Brune, an ancient spring along the Buna river. Old and newer mills and buildings are built into the cliffs that line the river.
Early in the morning, the cave near this residential building was filled with bats, coming and going. It might sound creepy, but the bats soaring through the air added to the mystique of the place.
Planning to Visit?
If you are planning to visit Bosnia, here are a few things that will help you plan your trip.
Currency
Most places in Bosnia do not take credit cards, so you will need to take out cash. This even included our hotel, which was one of the nicer and more established hotels in the area. However, coming from Croatia, we did find that most places would take Croatian kuna. This made it so that we didn’t actually end up having to take out cash while in Bosnia. You’ll just have to keep track of the exchange rates, as you’ll be getting money back in Bosnian marks. Also, try not to leave Bosnia with any money, as even airports would not exchange the marks back to US dollars for us.
Communication
Everyone we met in Croatia was very friendly. In Mostar, most of the people we tried to speak with could speak English; however, in the outskirts of Mostar, very few people spoke English outside of the tourist destinations.
Driving
We found the roads in Bosnia-Herzegovina to be very well maintained and marked. As in most places, downloading Maps.me in addition to using google maps helped us to get around. Upon arriving in Mostar, we were stopped by some locals saying we had to park for a fee. Had we asked our hotel in advance, we would have known that they provided parking at their hotel and saved ourselves some money and communications, so check with your accommodations ahead of time if you are driving to ask about the best place to park.
Cuisine
While in Bosnia, you have to try some Cevapi, which are grilled Bosnian sausages. They are often served with flatbread and veggies. We also enjoyed a meal prepared under a Sač at our hotel. This means that the meal has been slow cooked over a fire for hours in a large metal or ceramic lid, creating a flavorful and savory meal.
Visas
As Americans traveling from Croatia, we just needed a stamp in our passport. However, depending on your length of travel and how long you are staying, you might need more. Bosnia is not a member of the EU, so this border was a little more involved than some of the others we’d crossed on our trip.